The puppies now are coming into the "teenagers" the time when you will be sorely tempted to get rid of them, especially if you are kidding goats out, or training for obedience or service dogs. This is when they will dig, chase things you don't wnat them to (or not chase things you want them too)
Please have patience and give them another year. Tie up, stake out and take out only when you can provide your undivided attention.
We are busy kidding and brushing here, sorry no more time.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Autism Dogs, Service dogs
Here is a letter I posted to someone looking for a dog for a child with autism. I have not added the original letter, and just wanted to give people a sense for what assistance dogs are or can be.
Very glad to meet you and hope we can help. There is actually a book out for training dogs for autism, and the training has been very successful. I have one daughter with autism and one with Down Syndrome. Your story can be my own! My dd with DS wonders, we have an ankle bracelet with alarm on it; but find that Chewy is much better because I can locate my daughter instantly by looking for the dog! We also have a small ranch, and she can wonder safely for about 1/2 mile in any direction, but it is a real comfort for me to know that 130 lb Chewy is with her (she has gained alot of weight since the litter). Chewy never gets upset with anyone, but I think it would have been so much nicer if I knew HOW to train a dog for the meltdowns! There is a pretty active site on the web about training special needs dogs. I even got the book; The Golden Bridge about training a dog for a child with autism and highly recommend it. While they are pushing their own kennel, and that might be the best choice for you; it still has great information. The only difference you could get with one of our dogs, is the protection aspect. These dogs are bred to bond. The bond is pretty much unbreakable. What ever breed you decide on, unfortuneately because of the unique disruptions for our children; you must start with a very young puppy, and one that will not tramatize easily. A golden retriever could be a good choice, I think more the dogs temperment would be what you need to look for. If you can, come and meet Chewy and Ariel, our dogs. My sister has a letter of puppies she might have one. She has the next male I will breed to, Keno. You should plan on driving out to take the puppy back yourself, with your child. I know road trips are hard, but by the time you get home you will have created a good working relationship with the puppy. On our breed, for what you need you need a pup about 6 weeks old, and they can not be flown. This is when you will get the best bond, and many breeders will not even consider selling a dog that young. Our pups are weaned at 5 weeks, so I have no problem with it. But let's be honest, the pup will chew, tear things up and get in trouble. YOU need to be the one that teaches him WHAT he can chew and tear up and how to stay out of trouble. In other words, you need to commit TWO years, and then you will have another 13-19 years of a faithful companion for your child. these dogs are pretty mellow, you can teach them to crate, but where is your child when you are gone? Can the babysitter work with the dog? These dogs are a tool, and while you must have the dog groomed and potty trained, once they are; the schools must accept them. Will the teacher read the book? Can you buy a wire crate for the pup to be in during school, and large enough your child can sit in with him? A Safe Place. The dog is also a tool so that other children will interact with your child, and comfy enough for your child to hide his head in the fur when he needs to. But the dog MUST have basic obedience, discipline and housebroken before you can attempt to introduce the concept to others. The dog MUST have rock solid temperment so as to not react aggressively to another child in the school that may not have good body control and slam dunks him! You need to hire a handler for the dog's first few months out in public if you can not do it. the handler will teach the child how to work with the dog, not train the dog in the general sence of how most seeing-eye or hearing-ear dogs are trained. I have even heard of dogs being trained to "sence" a melt down coming on and will jump up and lick the child in the face; disrupting the nervous impluse. Or even purposley tripping the child and hold him down until help arrives. The dogs wear packs, carrying information and cell phones, first aid kits etc. The dogs know when the pack goes on, it is time to work and his charge is his life. You MUST have SERVICE DOG on the pack, with information telling anyone who may see the dog holding your child down that the dog is working; to get the phone out of the pack and call you. Otherwise some unknowing person may shoot your dog!
Hope this helps. Ariel will be bred in two years, otherwise we do not plan another litter out of chewy unless my sister decides she is going to sell Keno!
Dusty
Very glad to meet you and hope we can help. There is actually a book out for training dogs for autism, and the training has been very successful. I have one daughter with autism and one with Down Syndrome. Your story can be my own! My dd with DS wonders, we have an ankle bracelet with alarm on it; but find that Chewy is much better because I can locate my daughter instantly by looking for the dog! We also have a small ranch, and she can wonder safely for about 1/2 mile in any direction, but it is a real comfort for me to know that 130 lb Chewy is with her (she has gained alot of weight since the litter). Chewy never gets upset with anyone, but I think it would have been so much nicer if I knew HOW to train a dog for the meltdowns! There is a pretty active site on the web about training special needs dogs. I even got the book; The Golden Bridge about training a dog for a child with autism and highly recommend it. While they are pushing their own kennel, and that might be the best choice for you; it still has great information. The only difference you could get with one of our dogs, is the protection aspect. These dogs are bred to bond. The bond is pretty much unbreakable. What ever breed you decide on, unfortuneately because of the unique disruptions for our children; you must start with a very young puppy, and one that will not tramatize easily. A golden retriever could be a good choice, I think more the dogs temperment would be what you need to look for. If you can, come and meet Chewy and Ariel, our dogs. My sister has a letter of puppies she might have one. She has the next male I will breed to, Keno. You should plan on driving out to take the puppy back yourself, with your child. I know road trips are hard, but by the time you get home you will have created a good working relationship with the puppy. On our breed, for what you need you need a pup about 6 weeks old, and they can not be flown. This is when you will get the best bond, and many breeders will not even consider selling a dog that young. Our pups are weaned at 5 weeks, so I have no problem with it. But let's be honest, the pup will chew, tear things up and get in trouble. YOU need to be the one that teaches him WHAT he can chew and tear up and how to stay out of trouble. In other words, you need to commit TWO years, and then you will have another 13-19 years of a faithful companion for your child. these dogs are pretty mellow, you can teach them to crate, but where is your child when you are gone? Can the babysitter work with the dog? These dogs are a tool, and while you must have the dog groomed and potty trained, once they are; the schools must accept them. Will the teacher read the book? Can you buy a wire crate for the pup to be in during school, and large enough your child can sit in with him? A Safe Place. The dog is also a tool so that other children will interact with your child, and comfy enough for your child to hide his head in the fur when he needs to. But the dog MUST have basic obedience, discipline and housebroken before you can attempt to introduce the concept to others. The dog MUST have rock solid temperment so as to not react aggressively to another child in the school that may not have good body control and slam dunks him! You need to hire a handler for the dog's first few months out in public if you can not do it. the handler will teach the child how to work with the dog, not train the dog in the general sence of how most seeing-eye or hearing-ear dogs are trained. I have even heard of dogs being trained to "sence" a melt down coming on and will jump up and lick the child in the face; disrupting the nervous impluse. Or even purposley tripping the child and hold him down until help arrives. The dogs wear packs, carrying information and cell phones, first aid kits etc. The dogs know when the pack goes on, it is time to work and his charge is his life. You MUST have SERVICE DOG on the pack, with information telling anyone who may see the dog holding your child down that the dog is working; to get the phone out of the pack and call you. Otherwise some unknowing person may shoot your dog!
Hope this helps. Ariel will be bred in two years, otherwise we do not plan another litter out of chewy unless my sister decides she is going to sell Keno!
Dusty
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
New game, "Take It"
When pups are young there are several things they like to do. One is to pick up and carry things in their mouths. This is a useful tool we can use to train pups that will later be used to do such things as:
Bring me a book off the bookshelf
Bring the paper
Carry the mail into the house for me
Carry groceries
Take my horse over to the hitching rail.
Attack and Release hold on a "criminal" or attacker.
This is one of the many tricks that will need to be taught young, so don't put it off too long. WE have started Ariel on this already, and after one lesson she is taking things from my hand and carrying for short distances.
I do not train alot with food. I like to surprize a dog and start pups with food, but I have already transfered her from food to petting and praise. She likes that as much as she does food now. You need to remember, she is with myself or the kids 24/7, so she has a reason to like praise! She likes to be with us. While this will certainly work with LPD, use food as their reward. They will be much more into food than praise, as you go out and feed them twice to three times a day and that is what they expect from you. The farm shepherd is not ONLY a lpd, and I have never met any of the lpd breeds that can be taught like the Farm Shepherds can.
So back to the game. I like a soft glove. Sit on the floor with your pup and be petting and playing quietly with her. Place the glove playfully it front of her nose and say "take it". this is a game, make it fun. your pup will take it immediately, praise and encourage her to hold it while you praise her. No need to scold, ever with this game. This is a game. After one or two times, she should take it every time you tell her to. Don't let her get bored, and remember she will want to pick up other items in the house, especially if they smell like you! (this will teach your husband to pick up his dirty laundry!).
So now she knows take it, then immediately you will teach the "give" or release. I want them to give it to my hand, but for some of the service dogs you may prefer "drop it". This is the primary step to training shutzhund work btw, you will absolutely NEED this "game" Most pups like to play it, but most dogs do not, which is why we teach them so young. In one or two days your pup will get this, meanwhile do not forget the "where's ?" game. Both will need to be used daily to be affective. After a month, then they should have it for life.
"What you invest in your puppy now, will be returned to you tenfold for many years to come"
I have just ordered another camera, so we should begin with more photos in the next week or two. Ariel is being trained as a basic service and farm dog. She is out with goats and horses (and Chewy ) at night, and with us all day. We have two handicapped daughters, one who gets lost and confused so Ariel will be needed for search and rescue type air scenting. Which is why the "where's Suzi" game is popular around here! We have a very heavy preditor load here, with cougar and coyotes all around day and night. So far we are the only ranch not hit by the three cougars in the area. But Chewy is out working all night long. Dolly is forteen and doing great. you will get to "meet" the family as we train our dogs together.
Bring me a book off the bookshelf
Bring the paper
Carry the mail into the house for me
Carry groceries
Take my horse over to the hitching rail.
Attack and Release hold on a "criminal" or attacker.
This is one of the many tricks that will need to be taught young, so don't put it off too long. WE have started Ariel on this already, and after one lesson she is taking things from my hand and carrying for short distances.
I do not train alot with food. I like to surprize a dog and start pups with food, but I have already transfered her from food to petting and praise. She likes that as much as she does food now. You need to remember, she is with myself or the kids 24/7, so she has a reason to like praise! She likes to be with us. While this will certainly work with LPD, use food as their reward. They will be much more into food than praise, as you go out and feed them twice to three times a day and that is what they expect from you. The farm shepherd is not ONLY a lpd, and I have never met any of the lpd breeds that can be taught like the Farm Shepherds can.
So back to the game. I like a soft glove. Sit on the floor with your pup and be petting and playing quietly with her. Place the glove playfully it front of her nose and say "take it". this is a game, make it fun. your pup will take it immediately, praise and encourage her to hold it while you praise her. No need to scold, ever with this game. This is a game. After one or two times, she should take it every time you tell her to. Don't let her get bored, and remember she will want to pick up other items in the house, especially if they smell like you! (this will teach your husband to pick up his dirty laundry!).
So now she knows take it, then immediately you will teach the "give" or release. I want them to give it to my hand, but for some of the service dogs you may prefer "drop it". This is the primary step to training shutzhund work btw, you will absolutely NEED this "game" Most pups like to play it, but most dogs do not, which is why we teach them so young. In one or two days your pup will get this, meanwhile do not forget the "where's ?" game. Both will need to be used daily to be affective. After a month, then they should have it for life.
"What you invest in your puppy now, will be returned to you tenfold for many years to come"
I have just ordered another camera, so we should begin with more photos in the next week or two. Ariel is being trained as a basic service and farm dog. She is out with goats and horses (and Chewy ) at night, and with us all day. We have two handicapped daughters, one who gets lost and confused so Ariel will be needed for search and rescue type air scenting. Which is why the "where's Suzi" game is popular around here! We have a very heavy preditor load here, with cougar and coyotes all around day and night. So far we are the only ranch not hit by the three cougars in the area. But Chewy is out working all night long. Dolly is forteen and doing great. you will get to "meet" the family as we train our dogs together.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Training a Livestock Protection Puppy
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnCqzRF-bxUgp_7VPVLOYHERxn_s08gqud41OVJLr6-yeOUHv16VnqeJsRNOLNgeKQu3f3FwttGC31CQFfIcb4u_tYV0zkGYuhuzrwb7CKN6MZ_t_512PFRfcv1xbaWUEbxZT5xKZ0748/s200/abby.jpg)
Pups are 8 weeks old now and ready to begin training as a livestock protection dog.
PLEASE NOTE: IF YOU HAVE HORSES IN FIELDS, PLEASE KEEP YOUR PUP ON LEASH OR NEXT TO YOU AT ALL TIMES AS SOME HORSES WILL ATTEMPT TO KILL PUPPIES: WE have lost more livestock over the years to horses than to cougar, coyotes and bear combined! In my opinion, most horses should never be run with livestock.
Your pups should now be comfortable with you and in thier environment. Please keep pups outside as much as possible, they can not work when in the house!
Every day now should begin the task of taking your pup out in the smallest field (not a pen) and walk the perimeters of the fence with them. They should not be allowed to go under/over fences, but stay with you. Do NOT encourage them to go up to livestock. All animals have a flight or fight instinct; and we do not want the pup to get hurt or freightened of your livestock. If they notice the stock, or even bark at them just a quiet, "that'll do" should be enough. If they begin to move toward the stock, call them to you and pet them when they come. We do not want to discourage investigations or curiosity too much but we need to keep the experience happy and building courage and trust.
In his exercise we are showing the pup boundaries, gaining trust and boldness. I have already walked 48 acres with our pups, and they have no trouble keeping up so your pup should be able to do the same.
Good luck, and don't hesitate to post quesitons here is you like.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
A New Game, "Where's Jesse?"
We want to start this game early in your pups training, as it is a game the whole family can get involved in, and the training will take a few weeks to get it down, then work more and more.
Put the pup in the center of a circle of fmaily members. The "handler" is the person that gives commands to the pup, the one bonded is not necessarily the handler. It should be an adult, always the same person to do most training, after training is going well then other family members can give commands.
So everyone has at least three very small treats the pup loves. Chicken is great. Make it a very fun game and the dog will catch on in a day or two and the kids love this one. The handler holds pup in lap, and says "Where's ______?" and give a childs or family members name. The person who is names says "here I am" very excited. Let the pup go to the child, and the child gives the treat ONLY when the pup actually gets to the person named. This goes a couple time around the circle until all treats are gone. This is to stay a game, so the dog is excited to go to each family member.
You can see where this will be a tremendous help to family's. IT is the start of search and rescue work, differnet from tracking as tracking is with the nose on scent; this is air scenting.
Let me know how you like this one!
Put the pup in the center of a circle of fmaily members. The "handler" is the person that gives commands to the pup, the one bonded is not necessarily the handler. It should be an adult, always the same person to do most training, after training is going well then other family members can give commands.
So everyone has at least three very small treats the pup loves. Chicken is great. Make it a very fun game and the dog will catch on in a day or two and the kids love this one. The handler holds pup in lap, and says "Where's ______?" and give a childs or family members name. The person who is names says "here I am" very excited. Let the pup go to the child, and the child gives the treat ONLY when the pup actually gets to the person named. This goes a couple time around the circle until all treats are gone. This is to stay a game, so the dog is excited to go to each family member.
You can see where this will be a tremendous help to family's. IT is the start of search and rescue work, differnet from tracking as tracking is with the nose on scent; this is air scenting.
Let me know how you like this one!
Labels:
early puppy training,
search and rescue,
tracking
Poddy Training part two
By now all pups should be pretty well poddy trained. If not there are just two reasons:
1. your letting your pup roam in too large an area. Confine the puppy to one or two rooms, or have him follow you to every room you go to.
2. You are not recognising your pups signs to go out. Very few dogs will actually whine at the door or scratch. You need to notice when he even walks over to the door and sniff. "Good Boy" and let him out. When you bring him back in remember to pet him.
Some dogs you will want to train to "go" on command. Service dogs and police dogs noticeably. For this you will want to place the pup on leash to go outside when you know he is ready. Have a treat in your pocket for him.
Reward when he is finished.
WE brought our pup in for the first time to stay all night. Jesse locked her in the laundry room. I never heard a peep out of her all night. When I got up at 5am, she had not made a single mistake all night. Good dog!
If you are having trouble with your pup, be sure to write and ask for help!
1. your letting your pup roam in too large an area. Confine the puppy to one or two rooms, or have him follow you to every room you go to.
2. You are not recognising your pups signs to go out. Very few dogs will actually whine at the door or scratch. You need to notice when he even walks over to the door and sniff. "Good Boy" and let him out. When you bring him back in remember to pet him.
Some dogs you will want to train to "go" on command. Service dogs and police dogs noticeably. For this you will want to place the pup on leash to go outside when you know he is ready. Have a treat in your pocket for him.
Reward when he is finished.
WE brought our pup in for the first time to stay all night. Jesse locked her in the laundry room. I never heard a peep out of her all night. When I got up at 5am, she had not made a single mistake all night. Good dog!
If you are having trouble with your pup, be sure to write and ask for help!
Labels:
dog training,
housebreaking your pup,
puppy training
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Potty Training
Now that all pups are home and should be settling in; let's start some training!
Training at 6 weeks? Yes!
Potty Training: Inside dogs
Pups should already have a desire to go far away from their home to relieve themselves, it is your job to give him/her an opportunity to do so. There are several ways to do this, but you should always remember these things,
1. When your pups first wakes from a nap (in the first few seconds) pick him up and put him outside. We start by picking them up so that they do not have an opportunity to think and instictively react to bladder pressure. Go outside with him, watch him go and reward him with good dog, or a small treat.
2. After she eats and drinks, let her out.
3. If you see her sniffing around the floor, let her out!
There are several gimmicks you may want to start once your puppy gets the idea. After a few days of picking them up to put out, try these:
1. Ask your pup when she first wakes, Do you need to go potty? What ever the question, you will want to put the word you will use for "potty" in your sentence. In this case we are using the word "potty". Then you keep repeating, potty? clap your hands and get her to follow you. I do not like to use the word "out" because you may need it in later training and you will confuse the dogs. Repeat, "potty?" and lead her to the door. Go out with her and when you notice her start to squat, "potty" without the question in your voice. Immediately give a treat when she is finished. Make sure to allow time to poop.
Bell ringing to go outside:
1. This is a fun trick that can be taught with a little more time and effort. A bell is hung from the wall next to the door the dog goes out to relieve. Once the pup is going to the door by himself to ask to go out, you may get lazy and forget to notice. This trick will make sure you do not. OTFS (Old Time Farm Shepherds) do not bark, so these dogs will NOT bark or whine to let you know they have to go out.
2. When the pup goes to door, wiggle the bell (a soft sounding bell not a cow bell!) try to get the pup to grab and pull on the bell, make it a game that is fun for him! The Minute he reaches for and touches the rope, give him a treat. You do NOT give a command for this task, as he will use this to let you know he needs to go out. Then let him immediately outside. You do need to do this every time he is let out to potty. NOT when let out to play. Once he begins to use the bell, he will think it great fun to ring it to get you to come play with him, or to go out and play, do NOT reward with a treat then, ignore him. You can not punish him for using the bell, but it is not a toy either. Make sure you are willing to listen to him ring the bell! If he begins to use it as a tug o war toy, you will then of course need to tell him "no", then "potty" and let him outside.
Potty training outside dogs:
These pups are of course outside all the time so why potty train? Well, you train here where NOT to go. Walk your pup around the area you prefer to have him relieve himself after meals every day. This is usually fast and easy training.
Training at 6 weeks? Yes!
Potty Training: Inside dogs
Pups should already have a desire to go far away from their home to relieve themselves, it is your job to give him/her an opportunity to do so. There are several ways to do this, but you should always remember these things,
1. When your pups first wakes from a nap (in the first few seconds) pick him up and put him outside. We start by picking them up so that they do not have an opportunity to think and instictively react to bladder pressure. Go outside with him, watch him go and reward him with good dog, or a small treat.
2. After she eats and drinks, let her out.
3. If you see her sniffing around the floor, let her out!
There are several gimmicks you may want to start once your puppy gets the idea. After a few days of picking them up to put out, try these:
1. Ask your pup when she first wakes, Do you need to go potty? What ever the question, you will want to put the word you will use for "potty" in your sentence. In this case we are using the word "potty". Then you keep repeating, potty? clap your hands and get her to follow you. I do not like to use the word "out" because you may need it in later training and you will confuse the dogs. Repeat, "potty?" and lead her to the door. Go out with her and when you notice her start to squat, "potty" without the question in your voice. Immediately give a treat when she is finished. Make sure to allow time to poop.
Bell ringing to go outside:
1. This is a fun trick that can be taught with a little more time and effort. A bell is hung from the wall next to the door the dog goes out to relieve. Once the pup is going to the door by himself to ask to go out, you may get lazy and forget to notice. This trick will make sure you do not. OTFS (Old Time Farm Shepherds) do not bark, so these dogs will NOT bark or whine to let you know they have to go out.
2. When the pup goes to door, wiggle the bell (a soft sounding bell not a cow bell!) try to get the pup to grab and pull on the bell, make it a game that is fun for him! The Minute he reaches for and touches the rope, give him a treat. You do NOT give a command for this task, as he will use this to let you know he needs to go out. Then let him immediately outside. You do need to do this every time he is let out to potty. NOT when let out to play. Once he begins to use the bell, he will think it great fun to ring it to get you to come play with him, or to go out and play, do NOT reward with a treat then, ignore him. You can not punish him for using the bell, but it is not a toy either. Make sure you are willing to listen to him ring the bell! If he begins to use it as a tug o war toy, you will then of course need to tell him "no", then "potty" and let him outside.
Potty training outside dogs:
These pups are of course outside all the time so why potty train? Well, you train here where NOT to go. Walk your pup around the area you prefer to have him relieve himself after meals every day. This is usually fast and easy training.
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